If Rome, Paris and London have delighted you in the past and it’s time for a more unusual destination, we’d like to offer Tbilisi, Georgia for your consideration. Over 1,500 years old and spiked with soviet influences and ultra-modern industrial architecture, there’s plenty that will intrigue.
Ideally, Tbilisi is the base for a much more extended journey through all of Georgia, but with just 3 Days* to spare this time, the focus was solely on the Georgian capital.
Before the Russians came the Turks, the Persians, the Arabs, the Mongols who left their marks on this stunning city in the Caucasus, but since 1783 when the country became part of Russia, more European and Western influences have dominated.
After the fall of the Soviet Union, Georgia finally gained its independence in 1991. A simple walk in the city observing the street art gives visitors the impression the majority of Georgians are pro-Ukraine and opposed to the Russian invasion.
The name Tbilisi means warm place in Georgian, partially for its sulfur hot springs, which are definitely worth a visit.
Plenty of traditional bath houses offer pools to soak in. Especially after hour/day-long ganders through the city, a little float and a rigorous scrub will do your body good.
Three things that really stand out about Tbilisi is:
the sense of safety - even for solo female travelers. Petty crimes are less frequent here than many other European tourist hubs and harassment on the streets is considered rare. The public transportation system feels overall safe and so does the city at night. Well lit and overall friendly, helpful locals add to the overall sense of safety.
the variety of architectural influences, derived from the many different cultural influences.
the country’s affordability. While prices are climbing here like everywhere else in the world, you’ll find that the Euro or Dollar stretches about twice as far as in many other Western cities.
Stylish coffee shops can be found on every other block and Georgians know how to make a good brew. Paris or Rome might be the cities known for frothy cappuccinos and creamy lattes, but we’ve been very happy with the array of brews here as well. Some of our favorite spots to refuel are:
When it comes to accommodation, ROOMS Tbilisi (Kazgebi) was our choice and we did not regret it. The former publishing house has been turned into an industrial-chic, bohemian, artsy and eclectic boutique hotel with a solid bar and restaurant.
Faded persian rugs, colorful tiles, unusual vintage pieces and eye-catching art all contribute to a visually appealing, relaxing atmosphere. The communal lounge area is cozy, whether you’re with your laptop or friends for an after dinner drink. Other travelers have occasionally complained about the attentiveness of staff, but that wasn’t our experience.
After a free upgrade upon arrival, we ended up in a beautiful, spacious room with a ridiculously comfortable bed, courtyard views and a bottle of local red.
When it comes to dining, Tbilisi did not disappoint. While Georgian cuisine is littered with highlights (kinkhali, Chakapuli, Pkhali, shoti puri are a must tries) the city is also home to a slew of modern international restaurants worth a visit.
Restaurant suggestions:
Keto & Kote - international, romantic, hard to find
Giorgobistve - beautiful, cozy courtyard. Serves mainly traditional Georgian food.
Cafe Stamba - stylish within an old printing factory. The hotel by the same name is also a fantastic splurgy option.
Shushabandi - modern Georgian food in a cozy, historical setting. Highly trained staff and an equally impressive drink list make this a worthy stop.
Berytus - Lebanese cuisine.
Shavi Lomi - warm atmosphere, also Georgian cuisine with European and Middle Eastern influences.
Lolita - trendy and a good option for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend drinks. Stop by for at least one of these options.
Littera - A tranquil, green courtyard that’s ideal for daytime lounging and recharging.
Maybe I didn’t get lucky, but the local wine didn’t didn’t blow my socks off. Neither did the local Chacha, a clear and strong brandy that will make your toe nails curl upwards.
However, here a few ideas for a great cocktail:
Unfound door - old world charm and elegance with flaking frescoes and a whiff or romance in the air
Shushabundi - already on the restaurant list, but worth a visit just for libations as well.
Barbar’a Bar - classy and central, you can’t go wrong with this spot, if you’re looking for a tasty cocktail.
Graali - is not to be missed by vodka and gin lovers with utmost old world charm
Cafe Stamba - industrial aesthetics, a patio that’s special and a drink menu that’s lux trendy… See and be seen here.
In terms of sights, we had no specific agenda, so instead wandered aimlessly and enjoyed finding little gems along the way.
A basement baker, prepping fresh shotis, a Georgian chanting by an orthodox choir, feeding some of the stray (chipped) cats and dogs - which is encouraged by the locals - a local clergyman bursting with pride over his children’s success at German University, the dance invitation of a local Georgian, who really, really likes 80s American music, and so on. Tbilisi is a perfect place to stroll, observe and interact, agenda-free…
