If you find yourself in Europe during summer and it’s nature’s spectacle you’re after, the Dolomites in the northeast of Italy beg for a visit.
Vast, majestic, imposing and picturesque, the Dolomite mountain range, a subrange of the Italian Alps, straddles the three northern Italian regions Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol, Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
The names alone sound like Italian operas and so do their most spectacular and well-known peaks… Catinaccio (Rosengarten), Latemar and Puez-Odle (Geisler) Group. Our 3 Days* recommendation will include three unforgettable hikes, one in each of these areas.
A ‘schwitz’ with a view…
While nature bathing is the main attraction in the Dolomites, the influence of three different cultures and languages in the region make it a colorful and fascinating mosaic.
Our favorite area is South Tyrol, where Austrian/German, Italian and Ladin influences converge. This is where Austrian “Gemuetlichkeit”, Italian “dolce vita” and Ladin’s (somewhat related to Latin) “salt of the earth” influences intertwine and breed a special kind of love for nature, food and wine.
The Dolomites are full of phenomenal boutique hotels, celebrating the scenic beauty and culinary gems of the region. We chose the Cyprianerhof Dolomites Resort as our tranquil refuge. From here you have easy access to some of the best hikes and can return to relaxing wellness treatments and gastronomic treats.
The 5-star resort is big on sustainability and nestled so perfectly into the hillsides underneath the Catinaccio (Rosengarten) mountain relief at the edge of the charming village of Tiers, that the mind instantly slows down the moment you arrive at the resort.
The rolling hills, tranquil forests and wild rock formations create the perfect backdrop for a perspective shift and the natural materials the hotel is built with give it a soothing high-end sauna vibe. Speaking of saunas… one of my favorite things about Cyprianerhof was their adults-only sauna area.
Two individual saunas are perched on the nearby hill and the panoramic views make this the most stunning hot box you’re likely to encounter this side of the Atlantic. The cold plunge pool and warm jacuzzi enhance the freeze/reheat sauna ritual and nothing relieves sore muscles better than a few rounds after a long hike.
Day 1*
Now on to the hikes…
We start Day 1* with a less challenging hike in the Villnoess Valley at the Geisler Peaks to warm up for the next two days. Sound of Music wasn’t, but could have been shot here and it’s Ok for you to hum the melody as you work your way toward one of the cutest mountain huts I’ve ever paused in.
If you manage to grab a front row table on the patio, the view of the unobstructed stone face of the Geissler peaks is nothing short of breath-taking.
Kaiserschmarrn (Sweet, doughy dish, often served with raisins, powdered sugar and apple sauce) and Weissbier will fuel the descent along little mountain springs, mossy paths and lush green pastures.
If you’re traveling by car, the Zans parking lot is an ideal starting point. Beware that during high season that parking spots fill up and an arrival on the earlier side is advisable.
Day 2*
On Day 2* we kick it up a notch and tackle a summit in the Latemar range. The Latemarscharte. The tour starts at Carezza de Lago from where you simply follow the path around the left side of the mountain for about 4 kilometers (2.3 miles) and an elevation gain of ~1000m (3000 feet).
I always find the uphill cardio challenge more fun and despite some huffing and puffing, the way up is beautiful and doesn’t require much technical finesse.
On top of the Latemarscharte, the vast panoramic views warrant a break before starting the rocky and slippery decent. This is where hiking poles really come in handy, especially if you want to protect your knees and ankles. After ~90 minutes of downhill slipping and sliding (at least for me), you have the option to keep right and return to your car or add the Latemar Labyrinth trail to your excursion - which would be my recommendation.
Spike rock formations and little altitude gains make this a perfect add-on and provides solid photo content, if that’s what you’re after. With the added loop of the labyrinth, the total hike measures roughly 13k (8 miles) and takes about 5-6 hours, if you want to stop and smell the roses. Or have regular snack breaks like I do.
Here the Link for Day 1 in German and English! Or Google the visually spectacular and child-friendly Labyrinth Trail, if altitude isn’t in the cards.
DAY 3*
Saving my personal favorite for last. The third hike will serve up the most spectacular views of this 3* Days Dolomites excursion. From our starting point at Hotel Cyprianerhof in Tiers, a gondola (three gondolas, to be precise) will bring you up to “Kölner Hut”.
The first leg of the gondola ride gives the possibility to ride on the cabin’s roof. Definitely worth the experience if you are not afraid of heights.
Starting from the Kölner Hut (Hütte), follow the signage for Route 550B. Your mountain goat skills will come in handy in this rocky, high alpine landscape. But the view is worth the effort as you reach the top and glance through the stony gate, the “Tschargerjoch”.
The sight is truly spectacular as you literally find yourself on top of the world, sitting in an eagle’s nest surrounded by a vista of the most immense dimensions.
The route we chose leads you down the other side of the peak and up another steep incline to a crossing point along the “Rotwand” from where you descend and circle the Rosengarten back to Kölner Hütte, your original starting point. Refugio Paolina along the path is a good place to fuel up and soak in the vista a bit longer.
Some minor landslides have caused a few sections of the route to be a little bit dicey, so be prepared for a potential detour.
Here the Link for Day 1 in German and English!
Please note that for all three hikes, proper hiking shoes with good traction and ankle protection are a must. Highly advisable also are hiking sticks for added stability and knee protection. We saw plenty of hikers in their 20s who chose hiking sticks over vanity.
A few things to keep in mind, when doing any of these hikes if you’re not an expert… always bring enough water, snacks and layers. Have your cell phone with emergency numbers charged, beware of falling rocks and ideally don’t hike alone.
Also… always check the forecast. Be safe and HAVE FUN!
